Saturday, March 28, 2015

In the highlands - Sagada [Part 4]

Sagada popped in and out a couple of times during my itinerary planning. It sounded like a pleasant place to visit but the journey from Banaue would take 3 hours by jeepney each way. I wasn't sure if it would be worth the effort, but since I'd already to decided to extend my trip, my final decision was to just go.

The "tour guide" from Banaue arranged a direct van transfer to Sagada at 8.30am at 300ps. It's slightly more expensive than taking the jeepney but direct and faster. On the way, we had brief photo stops at the rice terraces of Banaue. Majestic but not as pretty as Batad.

2.5-3 hours later, we arrived in Sagada. It was much colder here than I expected, kinda like Genting Highlands.

As recommended by many blogs, I had my lunch at Yoghurt House.

My sandwich was average but the honey yoghurt was to-die-for. So creamy and luscious, it was slightly sour but the generous drizzle of honey managed to complement it really well.

Yoghurt House's resident husky. It's so cute and friendly though a little scruffy/smelly.

There are many activities one could partake in Sagada, such as the cave connection, spelunking, hanging coffins, hiking, waterfalls, etc. Still feeling achy from my Batad hike, I decided to take it easy and just visit the hanging coffins. Moreover, I'm slightly cave-phobic so I was happy to skip the caving activities.

One could get a guide to get to the famed hanging coffins in Sagada, but I decided to brave it alone to Lumiang Burial Cave.

Short hike down to Lumiang Burial Cave. The rectangular wooden blocks are actually coffins. One could venture down into the caves but it looked pretty steep and I didn't have a light with me, so I didn't.

The gorgeous view near the caves.

After the short trek to Lumiang, I stopped to have tea at Sagada Lemon Pie House, famed for their lemon pies.

The pie was light, airy and had a nice tartness. I managed to finish it despite not being a dessert person.

 A visit to the local market just as they were closing.

In the evening, I saw boys playing basketball in the community court. With the younger kids watching on, rolling on the grass, laughing, hammering metal caps, etc. Doing everything a kid should be doing instead of having their eyes glued to an iPad. It was such a heartwarming sight and slowly, I began to fall in love with this simple town.

Dinner at Strawberry House was average, but the strawberry yoghurt was pretty good!

The next morning, at a friend's suggestion, I headed to Sagada Brew for breakfast, and coffee of course! I enjoyed the food (the coffee was a tad weak) and the chill cafe ambience. However, I was the only customer at that time.

There seems to be a high concentration of adorable kids in Sagada. Everywhere I went, the children had large sparkly eyes and dainty features. This pretty girl, Summer, who just turned 1 is learning how to walk. She let me carry her and cried when I returned her to her mommy! Awwwwww.....

I made my way to Echo Valley for the hanging coffins. The route wasn't clearly marked so there was some confusion whether to turn "left" or "right" occasionally. Thank goodness there was a big tour group with a guide in front of me and 3 other French tourists on their own so none of us got lost!

St Mary's cathedral

And all too quickly, my holiday in Sagada has ended. Saying goodbye to St. Joseph Resthouse where I spent the night.

My rather spartan room which cost 300ps.

The driver who brought me to Sagada told me to wait for the return to Banaue at 1pm. I had a nagging feeling that he may not turn up; after all, it was a private transfer so I reckoned that if no one wanted to come from Banaue, they would not operate the service. Out of caution, I checked-out much earlier and waited to see if the van would appear. It didn't..yikes (or at least I didn't see it). I ended up taking the public jeepney to Banaue via Baguio (40ps from Sagada to Baguio + 150ps from Baguio to Banaue) and it turned out to be a really good thing! I bumped into the French tourists again and made some new friends along the way!

A glimpse of Baguio

Interesting bunch of travellers from the Philippines, Finland, France, Spain and Malaysia!

Monday, March 23, 2015

The rice terraces of Batad [Part 3]

In El Nido, I met fellow travellers who had just come from Banaue/Batad. They showed me pictures of the amazing rice terraces (which I had originally intended to go but chickened out due to the long overnight bus) and I asked myself: Were the rice terraces worth extending my trip and paying a new return ticket for? When would I have the time and flexibility to do this again? Would I come back to the Philippines? What if the rice terraces failed to impress? I didn't have to dwell too long as the answer was an unequivocal JUST DO IT.

Too many times, we ponder and wonder when making decisions, and we let our imaginary fears, often overplayed due to hearsay from others, scare us into giving up the task. Truth be told, most of these people, while having our best interests at heart, have not even been to that particular destination before. That is not to say that the place will be 100% safe; as with every new place you venture to, it is important to do lots of research and practice caution and vigilance. I am trying to get into a zone of feeling comfortable enough to make my own call and not let other people's judgement deter me from doing what I want to do. It's not easy, but I hope to get there someday.

Once I got back to Manila, I took a taxi to the Ohayami bus terminal on Lacson Ave. to buy my bus ticket. There are 2 bus companies servicing the Manila-Banaue route (the other is Dangwa/Florida located in Cubao); I chose Ohayami as the bus station seemed nearer to Makati. It was pretty ridiculous, as my taxi to and fro cost almost as much as the overnight bus. But since I had decided to go, I wanted to secure the tickets and be assured that I won't end up sitting on the makeshift seats on the bus ("extra foldable seat" along the aisle). Which turned out to be a good move as I managed to snag one of the last few tickets at the back.

There were 2-3 toilet stops along the way but I refrained from drinking water so I didn't have to keep going to the toilet. In fact, I had a pretty enjoyable ride and managed to catch some sleep along the way.

My sweet neighbour on the bus.  She thought I was local and started rattling to me in Tagalog (I suspect she was complaining about the foreigners behind us who couldn't stop yakking throughout the night). Somehow, that faux pas started a conversation, and she shared that she had just found a factory job in Kao-shiung, Taiwan and would be leaving her 1-year old kid and husband in Banaue in the hope that the money she makes will give all of them a better life.

8 hours later, we arrived in Banaue.

Locals going about their day.

I checked with the tourist information counter for room availability and tour options to Batad. I did not get any useful information so I settled down at the cafe and ordered myself a hot drink first. Shortly afterwards, a "tour guide", who's this one dude who speaks reasonably good English, approached me to make arrangements for my trip. I decided to get a personal guide at an agreed fee of 2,000ps (S$62) for the entire day to save the transport hassle plus I wasn't entirely confident about trekking alone.

My guide was a young lad in his 20s named Jason. He popped by the lodge next door, secured a single room for me (bargained from 300ps to 250ps) and after a short rest, we started our day trip to Batad by tricycle.

At S$8 per night, this is definitely the cheapest single room I've ever stayed in. 

Two picturesque view points along the way.



After 45min of bumpy ride, we arrived at Batad Saddle, the gateway to the rice terraces. It was downhill all the way so you can only imagine that the return would be much much harder.

A sneak preview of the Batad rice terraces, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is said that the rice terraces were carved into the mountains by the Ifugao tribe 2,000 years ago, mainly by hand with minimal equipment.

Jason very thoughtfully brought chocolate and sweets for the village kids.

An Ifugao (traditional) hut

A close up view as we descended into the village.




 With my guide, Jason.


One could also make the trip down to Tappiyah waterfalls, but the steps were rather steep and taxing on the knees. Once again, I was thankful for a good guide who lent me a hand from time to time.A few brave souls swam in the frigid waters but I did not relish getting wet so I just sat there to enjoy the spray from the falls.

On our way back to the village - a bird's eye view of the rice terraces.

I was super tired and hungry from the trekking and wanted my lunch! The walk along the rice terraces could get pretty nerve-wrecking at times as some paths were narrow and one wrong step could lead to a 10-metre drop into the paddy fields.



 Back in Batad village for lunch. Simple food never tasted so good!

A last look at Banaue on our way back to the lodge.


Tuesday, March 17, 2015

Philippines Part 2 - El Nido, Palawan

According to CNNGo, El Nido is the best beach and island destination in the Philippines for its "extraordinary natural splendor and ecosystem".

I'd read up on solo travel before embarking on this trip as I wasn't sure if I could stand being on an island all by myself for 5 days. To guarantee some company, I booked myself into a 2-bedder dorm with Our Melting Pot (OMP), a hostel with good reviews on Tripadvisor. El Nido is also well-known for its amazing island hopping tours so in the worst case scenario, I would join a tour every day!

El Nido is not the most assessible place to get to. First, you have to fly to Puerto Princessa, a sleepy town with nothing much going on, then take a bus/van for 6-8 hours to reach El Nido. I opted for the van option since it is supposed to be faster (forgot to negotiate and paid 600ps but my French travel companion paid only 500ps). The ride was so cramped and bumpy that I was exhausted by the time I checked in.

The next morning, I signed up for an island hopping tour. Was recommended Tour A (lagoons) and Tour C (beaches) and opted for the former. There were 3 of us from OMP who signed up for Tour A and we were combined with 10+ others from other guesthouses.

Enjoying the view while waiting to start our tour...


7 Commandos island

The beautiful limestone cliffs and walls

The boat crew preparing our lunch (which was delicious!)
 Simizu island


 Small lagoon


Big lagoon

On Day 3, I gave myself a break and headed to the beach to R&R. Nacpan beach was highly raved but since it wasn't easy to get to, I opted for the nearer Las Cabanas beach. It took me 75 min by foot to get there. Yes, I could have taken the trike but I could afford the time and wanted to take in the sights along the way.



A glimpse of Las Cabanas beach


 


On Day 4, I decided to join my new-found friends to hang out at Nacpan beach, instead of going for another tour which I'd originally intended to. That's another advantage of travelling solo; having the prerogative to change your plans as and when you wish without being accountable to anyone else.

Nacpan beach was devoid of the crowds at Las Cabanas so it felt very private and exclusive. We had a great time chatting, swimming, playing frisbee and flying a kite on the beach.



And later, we headed to Las Cabanas for the breathtaking sunset again.


Almost too soon, my island holiday has ended. I am thankful for the friendships made with these amazing people, especially my roommate Pauline.